They’re Over It

For many of the women who strolled upper Madison Avenue on a recent fall day, it was time to shed the hoodies, biker coats, platform sneakers and country-style floral dresses that until recently denoted cool in favor of a genteelly understated, increasingly formal and durable look. Call it unfashion, anti-fashion or a counter to the counterculture. It signals a retreat to the safety and unfailing propriety of matched suit, knee-high equestrian boots or some tweedy variation on an old-school uniform — an emphatically grown-up look that resonates with many women now.

Ms. Warmoes is inclined these days to shop her closet. “I’m not looking for anything really zany or new,” she said.

Vanessa Traina, a high-profile stylist and luxury-brand consultant, seemed to share that mood. She strolled the avenue wearing a cream-colored Aran sweater and matching skirt, both timeworn Calvin Klein. “I’m just bringing back everything I’d put to bed,” Ms. Traina said.

As far back as two years ago, Mr. Burke began noticing troops of young style setters adopting calf-length skirts, pleated trousers and logo scarves coiled at the throat, looks mirrored only recently on the runways.

“It seems ironic that some major rebels of the runway — Riccardo Tisci of Burberry, Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga and Hedi Slimane — have been responding to rather than anticipating this shift,” he said.


Dodging trends is the trend, said Taylor Bliss, a 28-year-old decorator. Ms. Bliss was enveloped in a toffee-tone wool coat and matching trousers. “These are classics that I can wear through multiple seasons,” she said, adding that her contemporaries feel much the same way. “Girls just want to buy things that will last.”

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